In a recent post we noted how even small amounts of elastane (also known as spandex and Lycra) can block recycling systems — making it a “recycling killer fibre.” To raise awareness about its near ubiquitous presence in modern clothing and emphasise the significant environmental impact it leaves in its wake, we have compiled brief notes here and linked them to the studies that back them.
1. Elastane Contaminates Textile Recycling
Elastane’s elasticity is exactly what makes it useful — but this same property disrupts standard recycling machinery. As Wrenby explains, even 2–5% elastane in a blend can jam shredders and complicate the separation of fibres. According to the ECOLOGIC European textile recycling study, elastane acts as a contaminant in many recycling processes, greatly reducing the economic and environmental viability of recycling mixed-fibre textiles.
2. Chemical Recycling Methods Are Still Limited
Researchers have made progress. A team at Aarhus University developed a method to break down elastane by heating it with a specific alcohol, allowing fibres to be separated. Meanwhile, a Green Chemistry study demonstrates depolymerisation techniques for separating elastane from blended materials — but scaling these remains a challenge.
3. Toxicity and Microplastic Pollution
Traditional elastane is made from polyurethane, a petroleum-derived polymer. Its production uses toxic chemicals like isocyanates, which are hazardous to both human health and ecosystems. When washed, garments containing elastane can shed microplastics — tiny synthetic particles that pollute water systems.
4. A Barrier to Circular Fashion
Because elastane prevents easy recycling, many stretch garments end up being down-cycled (e.g. as insulation) rather than returned to wearable textiles. This article points out that even recycled elastane can degrade the quality of the recovered fibres, limiting reuse.
5. Emerging Alternatives — But Not Enough Yet
Thankfully, innovation is underway. Bio-based elastane is emerging: a new plant-derived stretch fibre promises to deliver elasticity without reliance on fossil fuels, reducing microplastic shedding. Stretch-fabric innovators are also experimenting with modular garment designs (e.g., water-soluble threads) to make future recycling easier.
6. What This Means for Brands and Consumers
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Brands: If you care about circularity, minimising or eliminating elastane in garments — or using bio-based alternatives — is key.
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Consumers: Look at fibre composition labels. When shopping for stretch clothing, consider low- or no-elastane options, and prefer brands that are transparent about recyclability.
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Policymakers & Innovators: Scaling up chemical recycling or adopting next-gen materials is crucial to reducing elastane’s environmental burden.
Conclusion
Elastane may enhance comfort in apparel, but it conceals a deep environmental problem. As we have observed, this fibre severely hampers recycling efforts. Until alternative stretch fibres or scalable recycling solutions become mainstream, elastane remains one of fashion’s most persistent plastic challenges.